You will need the following tools to hand for putting up a wild boar fence:

Fence posts and insulators

Z-posts (A) make up the framework for your fence system. Place these galvanised steel posts about every 4 m. Use a larger hammer and the drive-in sleeve (image 1) for driving the z-posts into the ground. Once the z-posts have been driven in, place the protective cap (B) on top. At the start and end of the fence, screw the professional corner and line insulators (D – see image 2) using the included self-tapping screws (E) and the Allen key (image 3) at 3 different heights for carrying the wire on the posts. Screw the Clip & Safe insulators (C) at three heights to the line posts in between. You should plan for rows set at heights of about 20 cm, 45 cm and 70 cm so that large wild boars, but also smaller young boars, cannot slip through the fence.

Conducting material and accessories

Wild boars have very poor vision. It is therefore necessary to make sure the conducting material is highly visible. Studies have shown that contrasting black / white is easiest for them to see. Very long fences are usually used for defence against wild boars. Very good quality conducting material is needed to ensure the electricity can travel the full length of these fences.

For these reasons we use exceptionally high-quality VOSS.farming HPC series.

Feed the wire through the insulators and mount these at the start and end of the fence by simply tightening the plastic screws on the professional corner and line insulators (D).

Then connect all three of the fence rows together using the heart clip connection cable (H).

Tip:
never tie knots in the conducting material!

Knots will impede the flow of electricity through your fence system. Instead, special connectors for polywire (G) are used. These create a conductive connection between the ends of the polywire and are therefore the perfect choice for guaranteeing the required voltage along the fence.

Energiser, grounding

The fence voltage of an electric fence for wild boars should be at least 3,000 V.

For longer fences, or fences with a lot of vegetation, we use the
230 V VOSS.farming "TESLA 7" mains energiser (I) with additional reserve capacity to ensure a sufficient fence voltage. Choose a location for your "TESLA 7" that is protected from wind and rain (e.g. a canopied house wall). Warning – only turn on the energiser once the electric fence has been completely installed.

Note:
use a mains socket with inbuilt ground fault circuit protection for connecting your mains energiser. Install a ground fault circuit breaker before your electric fence's mains energiser to prevent electrical accidents (item no. 48015).

Place a grounding stake (J)near to the energiser about 1 m into the ground and connect it using a lead out cable to the ground connection on the energiser. If the ground conditions are particularly poor, e.g. sandy, dry soil, it may be necessary to use several grounding stakes. Each grounding stake should be placed about 2–3 m apart and connected together using the lead out cable (K). Cut the required lengths of cable from the included 10 m lead out cable (K). Remove about 1–2 cm of the rubber insulation from the end of the cable (images 4 and 5). Twist the bare wire ends into a loop, place under the screws on the grounding stakes and screw down tight.

Make sure your electric fence has a good ground connection. It must not be connected to other grounding systems such as that of the house, lightning protection system or water pipes.

Lightning protection and connections

It is always important to consider lightning protection when operating an electric fence. Lightning tends to strike electric fences. Without lightning protection this strike, which can be many millions of volts, travels through the conducting material, via the fence connectors and into the energiser. This energiser is destroyed.

First mount the lightning protection (L) onto a non-flammable surface near to your energiser (e.g. on a wall of the house). Cut a sufficient length of cable from the lead out cable (K) and use it to connect the lightning protection to the fence connection on the energiser. The other part of your lightning protection mechanism is connected to the fence conducting material using a fence supply cable (M). Now you just need to connect the grounding. Both the energiser and the lightning protection are each connected to the grounding stakes. Use the lead out cable (K) again for this. The lightning protection should be connected to the first grounding stake and the energiser to the post furthest away.

Signage and fence monitoring

Vegetation on the fence, faulty insulators or plants, bushes and grass making direct contact with the wires will complete the fence circuit with the ground. The flow of electricity through these plants will reduce the voltage on the fence. There will not be sufficient voltage on the fence to scare off wild boars that touch it. You should therefore regularly check that your fence is in full working order.

Finding faults on the fence is made much easier by using practical fence testers (N). The "12 KV fence tester" gives you a quick readout of the fence voltage.

It is a legal requirement that any electric fence systems placed near to public roads and pathways are clearly indicated with a warning sign (O). Attach clearly visible warning signs approx. every 10-50 m and at entrances to paths and locations where an electric fence may not be expected carrying the phrase "Caution Electric Fence".

You are now finally ready to turn on your energiser. First make sure that your energiser is plugged into a mains socket.

Your wild boar fence is ready for use.

Contents of 100 m basic wild boar fence kit

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